Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 03:07:29 +0000
From: JDeRyke {[email protected]}
Subject: Re:  Ghia pet II  cooling fans
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Stock fan motors were mid-'70s Jaguar windshield wiper motors. Good luck 
finding cheap replacements (except for brushes). By the way, the Pantera wiper 
motor is also the same motor. Watch the POCA newsletter ads- guys are often 
dumping their stock stuff when they upgrade to better units. J DeRyke 


Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 02:58:29 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  Oil Temp Sending Unit
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Bill, don't spend a real lot of time on this. It's a stock Ford sending unit 
for the 351C, which is hooked into the Italian gauge. Never seen one that 
reads within 20 psi of "correct". Mine reads 35 psi when a mechanical gauge 
teed into the same hole reads 70+psi. I use the electric gauge for a "reality 
check" while driving- is there ANY pressure at all?- and the mechanical one 
for actual value. J DeRyke 


Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 21:52:32 +0000
From: [email protected] (Rodney Steffen)
Subject: electrical - update
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Thank you again for your responses.  Weldon was right on target; the multi-
wire ground is on a small threaded stud under the dash, welded near the base 
of the windshield, just left of the steering column, and has a relay mounted 
on it too.  The relay is in the line of sight, which makes it difficult to see 
the ground wires.  However, it is firmly attached and not corroded, and tests 
good for electrical connection, so it is not the source of my problems.  Also, 
I have moved my battery to the area just in front of the right rear tire, so 
the ground stud near the original location is no longer used. I did manage to 
find the causes of my gremlins, though. 

First, a relay I had installed had gotten water in it, thanks to leaks around 
the windshield, and it's contacts welded closed. It was intermittent at first, 
then failed for good. This is what was causing my radiator fans and some other 
items to continue running after turning the ignition key off.  Detrimental to 
battery life.  I replaced, and water-proofed it. 

Second, I found a corroded fuse and fuse holder clip.  The fuse was installed 
and not blown, but it didn't conduct any electricity, either. This caused my 
entire lighting system to quit; headlights, running lights, interior, brake 
and turn signals, the works.  This happened last week Friday as I was leaving 
from work.  It's almost dark already, and I have a 45 minute drive on I-95, 
the Sawgrass, and through Sunrise to get home. Not fun.  I managed to get 3 
blocks from home when a Sunrise police officer pulled me over.  I told him my 
lights had "just quit" (almost true), I was 3 blocks from home (true), all my 
paperwork checked out, and I said "Yes Sir" and "No Sir" alot, so he was good 
enough to let me go without a ticket.  A bit of work with some copper brite 
corrosion remover and some Q-tips; problem solved. 

When you find yourelf at your wits end over some bizarre problem, do what
works for me:

"I love Italian cars!"
"I love Italian cars!"
"I love Italian cars!"
"I love Italian cars!"

(keep repeating until it sinks in!) ;-)

I couldn't estimate how much time, headaches, and money this DeTomaso forum 
has saved me!  Thanks again to all participants!!  BTW, my Pantera is 26 years 
young this month.  Happy Birthday THPNMB02548!!! 


Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 15:29:08 +0000
From: Cristiano Rossi {[email protected]}
Subject: Horn relocated to wheel - Finally !!!
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Hi guys,

Finally, I have dismounted my steering wheel so that I can tell those of you 
who are interested how I relocated my horn to the steering wheel. 

It is really quite simple. The job basically consists of two different tasks: 
One is to give the horn button (that I presume that you already have) a 
permanent positive current. The other is to insulate this positive current, so 
that it does not make a short cirkuit and make the horn blow all the time. 

First, take off the steering wheel. In the wheel that I have (a Momo 
Prototipo), there is naturally the big "mounting hole", and besides it there 
is another small hole that is parallel to the "mounting hole". This small hole 
has a diameter of about 5 mm., I think. The small hole is visible from the 
"backside" of the wheel and also from above, when you take off the horn 
button. If you don't have the small hole, you must drill it. It can not be 
seen when your horn button is mounted. 

I then made a perfect cirkle of a piece of copper brake-tube and welded it 
together. The inside diameter of this ring is about 2,5 cm. This copper ring 
has an extension about 5 cm.'s long, also of copper. This extension goes 
through the small hole in the wheel. To isolate the extension electrically 
from the steering wheel, I put around it a piece of a plastic fuel line. 

The copper ring must now be fit around the large "mounting hole" on the 
underside of the wheel. Between the wheel and the copper ring, I glued on a 
piece of rubber for isolation. Now you have the copper ring with the extension 
mounted on the wheel, but being electrically isolated from the wheel. 

On the upper end of the copper extension, the part of it that you can see 
through the hole where your horn button was, you must fasten a piece of wire 
that goes to the centre of the horn button. When you now put on the horn 
button again, this button will, when the wheel is mounted, have electrical 
connection at one side to the frame, through the "mounting hole" in the wheel 
that goes to earth, and at the other side to the isolated copper ring through 
the isolated extension. 

Finally, you have to give permanent current to the copper ring. The reason why 
it has to be a ring is that the wheel is turned all the time when driving, so 
a wire connection would not last long. I used a small spring that was isolated 
from ground and mounted so that it always touches the isolated copper ring. 
Then I took the current from the positive wire of the existing horn button and 
connected it to the isolated spring that has now always positive current. 

Now, the spring has positive current permanently, and so does the copper ring 
that is always in touch with the spring. The isolated extension that goes up 
to the horn button has also always positive current, and this permanent 
current goes to the centre of the horn button. 

When you now press the horn, you will make a cirkuit through the spring, the 
ring, the extension, the wire, the horn button and the wheel itself to ground, 
and therefore, the horn will blow. 

The system has now worked for about ten years.

If anybody has further questions, or if I did not explain something good 
enough, please don't hesitate to contact me. 


Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 17:59:24 +0000
From: "Ted A. Mitchell" {[email protected]}
Subject: Horn - New York City
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

I was researching something else when I came across this in the Parts book. 
The bottom console rocker switch (D26Y 13713-B) for 1974 (New York City) is 
for the HORN!  Do you suppose that is so they can just turn the horn on and 
leave it that way?  Actually, I bet it is for some local law that requires an 
easy shut-off in case of an "ON" failure. 


Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 17:00:17 +0000
From: "Melton, Charles P" {[email protected]}
Subject: Headlight riser problem solved
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Jack helped me solve my headlight problem.  He's the story...

The headlights stopped rising...leaving me pseudo-stuck at night. (OK not 
stuck, I taped a flashlight to each fender, but I got pulled over, 
anyway...But the cop was laughing too hard to write a ticket...so...I left him 
there...) 

What I could tell was that the motor gear was not making correct contact with 
the gear of the headlight bar.  (A bar connects both headlight buckets)  The 
motor gear was not excessively worn, comparing to Jack's car... 

To start.....What we did was to lift the lights with the manual knob. 

[If you have not done this there is not much room for fat hands like mine, AND 
it takes LOTS and LOTS of turns to raise (or lower) the buckets...] 

Then I shoved the whole bucket assembly back to the left
(driver's side) re-engaging the motor gear with the bar gear. 

(It had moved right about 1/4 inch)

The bar gear was ever so slightly bent (compared to Jack's car) and thus, as 
it was used, it "walked" the bar towards the right side...until it dis-engaged 
from the motor gear. 

Then we had to loosen the bucket mount nuts to adjust the bucket so it would 
now fit in the hole.  Only the left side needed adjustment. 

Now I can drive at night, without making the cops laugh.

I am mentioning this here, as Jack said he had not seen this problem 
before...perhaps someone could benefit from our labours...and 


Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 02:22:56 +0000
From: JDeRyke {[email protected]}
Subject: Re:  Wiper Needed
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Scott, if you had the wire-form wiper arms, I've got and extra one I can haul
to Vegas. But they are stock early Jag if you have foreign wrecking yards in
TX. & need it quicker. J DeRyke


Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 19:50:09 +0000
From: Fred Terry {[email protected]}
Subject: Re: headlight question
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

} I've not real happy with the 60/35 halogen headlights that I
} have ... they're too easy to overrun at nite. Is there a good
} bulb upgrade available that the stock wiring will support ?

To anyone with quartz lights.

I wrote an article that appeared in Pantera International - issue
#88. It was followed by an article by Dennis Quella in issue #90. Both
of these articles address rewiring the headlights and show appropriate
wiring diagrams. I strongly advise that anyone who has or is thinking of
using headlights of a higher wattage than the stock sealed beams, to
make either of these wiring modifications. For that matter, I think it
should be done anyway. All the current for all the Pantera's lights pass
through the headlight switch. This high amperage overheats the switch
contacts and causes a little plastic piece inside to melt. When the
piece melts, the switch contacts separate and off go your lights. I
fried my headlight switch using a pair of 100w halogens. Believe me they
go out instantly and when you're going fast on a winding mountain road
in Pennsylvania, this is a real panic. The factory must have recognized
this problem because my GT5-S, is factory wired using relays for the
headlights. If you don't have copies of the above articles, back issues
are probably available from PI. Take a few hours and make the change. It
may save you some real problems latter.


Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 11:50:43 +0000
From: Mike Drew {[email protected]}
Subject: Re:  Pre-L bumpers
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

}Any one got some front bumpers for sale (72 pre l)

Also need a rigth hand side head ligth shell.

}}}Best source I know of for used or NOS stuff is Wally Baldyga in West
Suffield, CT.  Unfortunately, he will NOT screw around with mail order.
You come out to his (big) barn full of parts, pick what you want, he
tells you how much money to give him for it, and you leave.  That's it.

Fortunately, List Dude and PONE President Andy DiFatta lives only a few
miles away from Wally, and could probably be convinced to look for
something on your behalf.  Don't forget that there were two types of
Pre-L bumpers (flat-edge used through Jan '72, round-edge afterwards.)

Also, headlight buckets changed in several critical dimensions partway
through production; early buckets won't fit a late car and vice-versa.
Don't have my parts book at work again (damn!  tomorrow for sure!) so
surf to www.panteraparts.com and check out the page with the headlight
buckets listed; it shows two (or more) part numbers for each side, with
"Before #xxxx" and "After #xxxx".


Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 12:09:30 +0000
From: Mike Drew {[email protected]}
Subject: Re: Headlight bucket geekery!
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Also, headlight buckets changed in several critical dimensions partway
through production; early buckets won't fit a late car and vice-versa.
Don't have my parts book at work again (damn!  tomorrow for sure!) so
surf to www.panteraparts.com and check out the page with the headlight
buckets listed; it shows two (or more) part numbers for each side, with
"Before #xxxx" and "After #xxxx".

}}}So if you find a headlight bucket just lying around somewhere, how
will you know if it will fit, or if it's an early- or late-style bucket?

HAH!  It's a VERY little-known fact that DeTomaso stamped the last four
digits of each car's serial number into the bottom of both headlight
buckets!!!!!  If you remove the headlight bulb ass'y and peer into the
bucket, the number is stamped onto the sheet-metal base (that part which
lines up with the top of the fender when the headlight is UP.)

Last year, I found a beat-up bucket in Larry Stock's shop and was
pointing it out to him.  No number was visible (due to rust and mung all
over it), but we used some MeK (a fairly nasty acid) and a wire brush,
and BEHOLD the number appeared.  Turned out it was only about 8 units
away from MY car (my numbers are very visible in my buckets.)

So now you know...:})