Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 16:40:32 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  Motor Mounts
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

[[I want to verify the illustration in the manual and the parts book is 
  misleading.  It shows both rubber insulators in between the aluminum mount 
  on the engine and the one on the frame. I believe the insulators straddle 
  the mount on the engine so that only one is between the frame and motor 
  mount brackets.  Is this correct? ]] 

There is 1 rubber disc between the two aluminum mounts on each side. There was
listed an "insulator" and a "spacer" in the later parts book (w/out
illustrations). I've never seen a car with two of anything between the alloy
mounts. J DeRyke


Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 15:02:39 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  timing slipped?
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

[[Somehow my ignition timing retarded itself while at Pocono.  Ended up with
  only 28 deg full advance the last few runs.]]

Jerk that distributor RIGHT NOW & verify the drive gear pin has not
"partially" sheared! I've seen cases on 351Cs where only one side of that damn
pin breaks, allowing the gear to twist a bit. The thing then jams at a new
setting..... for a while. My best guess- J Deryke


Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 02:10:04 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  Help PLEASE!!!!
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

[[What else can I check, and please be as specific and detailed as possible, I 
  may only have once chance to get to this wedding, and get my car to France 
  with me. Thanks.]] 

Charlie, it may be the dreaded partially-sheared-distributor-drive-gear-pin
syndrome. This forces you to actually pull the distributor to check as what
happens is, one side of the roll pin shears, the other jams between gear &
shaft & will drive the cam but you'll be about 20 degrees retarded on the cam.
Fix is to pull the distributor, get a new pin PLUS a second pin small enough
to slide inside the first one. Put things together with a spot of Weatherstrip
cement on each end of the pins. Time the distributor by ear to get yourself
off the hiway, then get a timing light. It is definitely a timing issue of
some type. Cheers- J DeRyke


Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 23:44:25 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  update on problems
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

[[today I have: checked distributor for sheared pin - Pulled distributor cap, 
  and rotors rotate when turning the key. Appears to be ok]] 

This won't tell you if the pin is PARTIALLY sheared. You have to pull the 
distributor and visually inspect the pin for both ends being there. My pin 
partially sheared, twisted 30 degrees (which retarded the timing 15 degrees), 
jammed tight and overheated the motor in 2 minutes! One end of the pin was 
gone & the remainder twisted so you couldn't see thru the hollow pin. J DeRyke 


Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:13:41 +0000
From: scott black {[email protected]}
Subject: Re: SHear Pins
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

I cannot say this is true, but a buddy of mine claims that almost all the 
351C's that he has seen seem to be '72 motors.  He thinks the distrib. hole is 
not bored straight and binds the distributor, thus putting lots of pressure on 
the pin. 

I had a '68 Cougar we put a 351C in and it did the same thing repeatedly.  '72 
motor.  Maybe the casting during a time period wasn't done right.  Even if 
other motors are not '72 vintage, they may come from the same tooling or about 
the same time. 

Just pure conjecture.


Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 16:54:22 +0000
From: Steve Liebenow {[email protected]}
Subject: Fresh Air Cleaners
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

It appears to me, that we may be speaking of a couple versions of air cleaners 
here. 

Up to some point in late 73 or mid 74, Panteras were equiped with a version of 
what is known as a CJ air cleaner. Used in the Mustang and Cougar models with 
the HO or CJ 351C's.  These had the normal fresh air snorkle with the heat or 
vacume operated door to allow preheated air to the carb, from the exhaust 
manifold.  (This is one feature I have never seen active on a Pantera.... any 
takers??)  These models also had a vacume operated "ram-air" door that 
operated as Drew stated " with large amounts of throttle."  This gave the 
motor a heap-o-fresh air when you tromped on the right pedal.

Modifications were made to these aircleaners such that the snorkel opening was 
blocked off and the snorkle relocated to the rear left of the aircleaner. The 
auxiliary door was left intact, however, a small sheetmetal shield was 
constructed around it, for who know's what reason.  All connections for the 
charcoal canister and the valve cover breather were left alone. 

Somewhere in 74 or late 73, I would venture to say that in a cost saving 
measure, someone had the brite idea to stop hacking up the stock aircleaners 
and run 'em the way they came! Less sheetmetal work and labor. Here is where 
the fresh air scoop, mounted below the right front of the motor came to pass. 

It's also entirely possible that the factory started using regular aircleaners 
with out the auxilliary "ram-air" door at this time too! Use a lesser cost air 
cleaner assy to begin with!  Ford may have discontinued production of these 
aircleaners.... one never knows.  Anybody out there have a late car (up to 
74ish) without the auxilliary ram-air servo operated door on them?  These 
would be found on the left side of the air cleaner, aprox 3" x 4" and vacume 
operated. Goes "clank" when you start the car.  ???? 


Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 02:19:29 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  SHear Pins
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

After having this happen to Rich Agiorni's race engine, then to my tired
street motor, I believe the Ford pump is intolerant of debris going thru with
the oil. Usual scene is: old valve stem seals that turn into Bakelite with age
& hot oil. Vibration shatters pieces off them, which are small enough to go
thru the oil pump screen but too big for the pump to swallow. Ping! I've also
seen oil pump driveshafts in 289s with a half-twist in them- must've had a
really good pin in these. In Rich's case, we were using a 100psi relief spring
in the 351 pump, 50-wt racing oil and the pin let go at 6500 rpm- apparently
too much everything! BTW, this stuff didn't happen to the real-racers in the
old days, 'cause they ran dry-sumps back then, too. My thoughts anyway. J
DeRyke


Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 02:00:26 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  RE: Pan Removal
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

[[I have Hall's 1O quart oil pan on my engine. [Big deal I heard someone say.] 

It IS a big deal if you corner 'vigorously' or have oversized tires. Larry
Stock of PPC conclusively proved that a stock Pantera with gumball slicks can
corner in excess of 1.1Gs. Until the rod and main bearings starve for oil and
you lose the whole engine.... 10qt pans have baffles built in that prevent
this scenario.

The engine is NOT in the car now. [Nothing is.] Witch way would one move the
cross member and how far? BTW - I believe I was told that with Hall's pan it
was NOT necessary to move the cross-member to drop the pan! ? ! ? !]]

Wrong: to REMOVE the pan, one must make the crossmember REMOVABLE (and also
the e-brake bracket). The pan drops down about 8 inches to remove: in stock
form, the Pantera's rear crossmember is welded in place just below the oil
pan. If the crossmember cannot be removed, the only way the pan can come off
is if the engine is removed from the car. Cheers- J DeRyke