Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 02:15:34 +0000
From: JDeRyke {[email protected]}
Subject: Re:  Re:  Just ask Jack about blowers
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

The double-squirrel-cage blower mounts are in between the two impellers. 
Flexible masochists can see maybe two of the three 6x18 sheet metal screws 
that hold the assembly in under the dash. After it's loose, you need to 
"manipulate it" something fierce to get it out while not breaking the plastic 
impellers. I inadvertently reversed the impellers when I had the dash out. Jim 
Kuehne of Nor-Cal Pantera convinced me the thing WOULD come out without re-
pulling the dash and he was right! Oh, and since the assembly will mount and 
run both ways, check for proper air flow and impeller direction before you 
pronounce the job finished. 

J DeRyke
Voice of Experience (and bloody fingers)


Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 01:54:59 +0000
From: [email protected] (FOREST W GOODHART)
Subject: HVAC Fans
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Gary Hall sells a three speed fan assembly that actually fits. I believe it
is sourced from one of the aftermarket air conditioning manufacturers such
as Vintage Air but we need to keep our vendors in business so I recommend
purchasing from them. As I recall the cost was about $150.00 which is not
bad. I would never try to install this without removing the dash and the
heater/air conditioner unit. Even though this fan assembly fits, the screws
are in different locations so new holes need to be drilled. Gary recommends
wiring the slow speed winding to the AC condenser fan relay, the second
speed and high speed are then connected to the existing two speed switch.
This works quite well but install a diode to prevent feed back to the
condenser fan relay. This is a good time to replace the heater hoses with
silicon hose, clean the filter in the expansion valve (if it needs
cleaning, you also need new hoses and should flush the entire system), and
check AC hoses. For what it's worth, I believe that the air flow through
the condenser drops off at speed and the high head pressure switch, which I
installed after a blown hose and two blown filter dryers due to condenser
fan failure shuts the compressor down. Luke warm air at speeds above 65 MPH
cools right down when speed drops below about 60 MPH. This makes a front
mounted condenser sound like the way to go.


Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 02:39:25 +0000
From: David Doddek {[email protected]}
Subject: Re: HVAC Fans
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

}Gary Hall sells a three speed fan assembly that actually fits. I believe it
}is sourced from one of the aftermarket air conditioning manufacturers such
}as Vintage Air but we need to keep our vendors in business so I recommend
}purchasing from them. As I recall the cost was about $150.00 which is not
}bad. I would never try to install this without removing the dash and the
}heater/air conditioner unit. Even though this fan assembly fits, the screws
}are in different locations so new holes need to be drilled. Gary recommends
}wiring the slow speed winding to the AC condenser fan relay, the second
}speed and high speed are then connected to the existing two speed switch.
}This works quite well but install a diode to prevent feed back to the
}condenser fan relay. This is a good time to replace the heater hoses with
}silicon hose, clean the filter in the expansion valve (if it needs
}cleaning, you also need new hoses and should flush the entire system), and
}check AC hoses. For what it's worth, I believe that the air flow through
}the condenser drops off at speed and the high head pressure switch, which I
}installed after a blown hose and two blown filter dryers due to condenser
}fan failure shuts the compressor down. Luke warm air at speeds above 65 MPH
}cools right down when speed drops below about 60 MPH. This makes a front
}mounted condenser sound like the way to go.

If you want a truely variable speed fan, the run down to the local junkyard 
and pull the fan motor control off a late model T-bird.  The last models made 
had a truely infinately variable fan control.  It used an electronic module 
mounted out on the firewall by the fan motor and a rheostat in the dash. 


Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 04:02:11 +0000
From: [email protected] (Richard Barkley)
Subject: Fixing the Heater/Defroster Trim - a better way
to: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

}The chrome trim has rubbed off the heater/defroster controls and
}I'm thinking about simply touching it up with some chrome model
}paint.  Will this last or is there a better way?

I have the same problem (my guess is everyone does) and was wondering
what to do. I was fiddling in garage yesterday and came across an old roll
of aluminum foil tape. I cut some pieces into strips and pressed them on
firmly, smoothing it out with my fingernail. Then I took a fresh (very
sharp) utility knife and carefully cut along the edges. An Exacto would
probably be better. The stuff really cuts easily and clean. With a little
polishing it looks fantastic! Better than new. If you are careful, you can
wrap it around the outside edge to make it look solid. The hardest part is
the joints. I was just testing and just did two edges. It seemed like the
best way to do it would be to cover the whole face with two pieces (it's 2"
wide) which should leave just 2 fairly inconspicuous joints.

To do the job right, the slider should be removed. The gear teeth on the 
slider snap into it and can be snapped out; I used the tip of a ball point pen 
but a small screw driver would probably work better. Two or three of the 
louvers need to be popped out to get access to it. Be careful, you could break 
it. After the teeth are out the slider moves freely the full length, and 
that's all the further you need to go, but the slider can also be poped off 
the track by spreading it slightly. Again, be careful. I also tried some on 
the bars of the exterior windshield intakes. I have an early car (#1549) and 
they were all painted silver, much of which has come off. It seemed to work 
well there too, although it's not clear how durable it would be. I tried 
laying it on flat and wrapping it around. My guess is that wrapping it around 
would last much longer. If you don't want silver sides on the bars, you could 
paint over it and then polish off the tops. 

I'm not sure where I got the tape, but I noticed it in the JC Whitney
catalogue # 614J as item # 81KE4607P - 30 ft for $3.95 described as
Aluminum Tape. They also have a stainless steel tape. I ordered some last
week and should get it in a few days. I expect it will be much harder to
cut. I'll let you know how it works.

Finally, I've discovered a neat way to keep the vents from flopping (rotating) 
around. Get a piece of self-stick (sticky on the back) velcro. Cut off a small 
piece of the fuzzy side and stick it to the frame. The top is the least 
visible place. You may need to shim it to close the gap to where it provides 
enough friction to stop the flopping. Foam double sticky tape makes a good 
shim, but something more solid would probably be more durable. 

So there you have it. Hope it works for you.