Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 13:52:44 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  sloppy shift linkage
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

{{..... sometimes the lever feels under load and is actually still in third 
  gear rather than first when I come off the line.}} 

The Pantera shift linkage is tubular steel, quite long and flexible. IMHO, the
shift gate on '71-'72s will 'trap' the shifter lever on downshifts from
linkage flex: the lever will be in 1st while the transmission will actually be
in 3rd. FIX: remove the chrome gate & discard or use a '73-74 which has no
fingers. And slow down your shifting! The ZF has steel synchros and it is
possible to 'beat' the synchroniser mechanisms while shifting, putting a
massive load on the gear cone portion of the synchronisers, eventually wearing
them out. And you REALLY don't want to know the replacement cost! As far as
sloppy shifting, it's probably the shift-shaft support trunnion under the left
header. The stock trunnion was a rubber-bonded steel sleeve that the steel
shaft slides in. With zero grease for 20 years or so, things wear..... Hall
makes a teflon & aluminum substitute or fab up your own. I've seen stock
trunnions that simply loosened up. Check the thing closely while someone
shifts it (SLOWLY) for you. Cheers- J DeRyke


Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 14:13:09 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  Re:  sloppy shift linkage
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Also forgot to mention that the chrome shift gate on the '71- '72 Panteras is 
much harder than the shift lever, and is sharp where the stamp parted it off. 
It will saw through the shifter shaft in time from vibration or sloppy 
shifting, and replacement/repair is a non-trivial exercise. J DeRyke 


Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 14:30:31 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  Re:  sloppy shift linkage
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Charlie, trust me. There Is NO benefit to the gate with chrome fingers, given 
that you drive like a normal American. It is "Show Only". It is flat 
impossible to do quick shifts with the finger-gate in place. Plus, it causes 
damage to the shifter lever over time, even if you shift like your 
grandmother. NOTE: if there is already a gouge in your shifter lever, consider 
removing it and having the gouge filled with stainless steel welding rod 
(which will not show, saving you the cost of re-chroming the lever) or replace 
it with a new lever. The lever WILL break when overstressed if there's a deep 
gouge in it. Cheers- J DeRyke 


Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 21:23:54 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: sloppy shift linkage
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

}The shift linkage in my 73 stock pantera is very sloppy. [snip]
}
}Is there an aftermarket shift lever, shift rod, trunion bearing, air shifter, 
}anything better than stock that will solve this problem? 

}}}Well, others have answered already, but I'll add just a little bit.

The stock trunnion bearing when in good shape seems to work okay.  I've
seen two types of failure:  The rubber breaks down and allows the rod to
move laterally (side-to-side) instead of just fore and aft, which messes
things up out back.  Or, sometimes the bearing itself becomes loose on
the chassis and the whole assembly moves around, with the same effect.

Mike DeRyke told me that GoNancy's chassis mount was AFU, allowing the
thing to move all over the place no matter how much you tightened the
nut.  I guess he did some wizardry fabrication thing (it's in the DeRyke
genes) and got her all squared away.

Several vendors sell a super-ginchy '80's fix, which is a billet
aluminum deal with a teflon bushing.  I suppose it would work better,
but I can't help but wonder if it would bind up (the stock shift rod
goes through all sorts of gooshy grease, while this one is almost a
friction fit.)  If the rod is in good shape (smooth surface) and you
spritz some sort of silicone lube on every once in awhile, might work
okay.  I got one when I got my car, but never used it, and for the life
of me can't remember if I still have it or not.

The Ultimate Fix (which is, of course, the one I got, which is one of the 
reasons my damn car STILL isn't running!) comes from Pantera Performance in 
Colorado.  They replace the trunnion with a rod-end bearing, which has a full 
range of pivoting motion.  The kit comes with a modified (turned down) shift 
rod, you send yours in on an exchange basis. 

Super-trick, works great, can't remember how much it cost but I seem to
remember it was considerably more than double the next cheapest
alternative--something between $200 and $300 I think.


Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 21:31:32 +0000
From: George Frescura {[email protected]}
Subject: Shift linkage adjustments
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

This question is directed to those with any experience with shift linkage
adjustments. in TSB no 2 Article no. 14 sentence 1 states "Remove the
trunck liner and check that the two sections of the gear shift rod are
parallel. If not, adjust the support bearing accordingly" I understand how
to adjust the height of the support bearing but where does one measure for
parallelism? Simply placing a level across the two areas is not accurate as
the car has a rake. I can't beleive I took this car down to the last bolt
and nut, put it all back together and I can't get the car to shift
properly. During dissasembly I left the turnbuckle alone as my car with
25000 miles shifted perfectly but after reading about all the troubles
others have had I wanted reassembly to go smoothly.