Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:13:03 +0000
From: Paul Timko {[email protected]}
Subject: Power Windows
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Okay, so the plastic gear in my power window drive is replaced with a brass 
one.  Next question.  My window never really went up and down well.  I tried 
playing with washers around the window rail (the extruded part the window 
slides up and down on).  But the window won't go all the way up.  It falls 
short by 1/4".  A slight push on the lever and she's fine.  Any suggestions 
besides trial and error?  It also has trouble, but makes it through, in the 
middle.   It looks like this is caused by the lack of mechanical advantage as 
the driven geared lever is working through the other lever in a poor angle. 


Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 14:28:40 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  Re: Power Windows
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

}You guys are confusing me.

}}}Sorry about that!  We're here to HELP! :})

}Tracks?  Middle tracks??  My windows have a single pices of extruded aluminum 
between the bottom of the door and the top.  The window rides on this single 
piece with 4 rollers, 2 on each side. This track has a slight bow to it toward 
the outside of the door.  It is only adjustable with washers at the top (move 
the top toward the outside/inside of the car) and the bottom.  The bottom bolt 
goes upward through a small slot in the bottom of the door. 

}}}Ah, but you're forgetting about the tracks at the front and the back of the
glass.  There's a metal track that's screwed into the back inside edge of the
door, the bottom is adjustable in and out, the top is adjustable fore and aft.
(Part #11 on page 63 of the factory parts manual.)

Then there's the forward track, which is really the back side of the vent
window post.  On pushbutton cars (up to #1450) the one-piece upper window
frame extended down into the base of the door to form the front track for the
sliding glass.  (Page 61, parts 4/5.)  Later cars used the vent window post to
support the front edge of the glass, but only from the top of the door skin to
the roof; it didn't extend down into the door itself (page 61 part 55.)

On my car, the front side door felt hangs down almost to the bottom of the
door, even though the illustration in the parts book only shows it extending
to the top edge of the door (p 63 part 4.)

}I think I'm going to try and clean up the wiring first, get rid of the old 
connectors and see if that will help. 

}}}Suggest you carefully examine your parts book on the aforementioned pages, 
then loosen the various bolts holding these various tracks in place, and run 
the window up and down and see what moves where.  You've probably got some 
mechanical binding that could be easily cured by fitting washers here and 
there. 


Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 14:02:53 +0000
From: Kirby Schrader {[email protected]}
Subject: Re: Power Windows
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

}You guys are confusing me.  Tracks?  Middle tracks??  My windows have a
}single pices of extruded aluminum between the bottom of the door and the
}top.  The window rides on this single piece with 4 rollers, 2 on each side.
}This track has a slight bow to it toward the outside of the door.  It is
}only adjustable with washers at the top (move the top toward the
}outside/inside of the car) and the bottom.  The bottom bolt goes upward
}through a small slot in the bottom of the door.  I think I'm going to try
}and clean up the wiring first, get rid of the old connectors and see if that
}will help.

Well.... what I call a track is where the rollers run. Adding the 's'
to it probably made you think there's more than one...  Right?  ;-)

Those washers at the top are what I'm talking about. The rollers run 
on two tracks. One on each side of that aluminum thing you're talking
about.

That's what usually needs the adjusting. I also had to move around the
bolts where they go through the window with the rubber bushings. You
can get quite a bit of movement out of just loosening the bolt a little
and then moving the window before tightening the bolt again.

But my only example is my car... Yours could be very different in terms
of what needs moving. Make sure the rollers are turning free as they
move and the assembly doesn't get too 'cocked' as it goes up and down.
You can move the rollers in and out with an adjuster, but it's easy
to get them just right at one place on the track and too tight at another.
A lot of fiddling...  A little grease on the rollers helps also.

In fact, mine works great, but I've got a rattle in the driver's side
door that needs attention now.... Sigh....


Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 01:53:07 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  Headlight Concealment Motor
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Lee, the same motor and gearbox is used in the Pantera's power windows too,
which may make things easier to locate a used one. I'd start calling the guys
who sell parts and/or overhaul Panteras, like Larry Stock of PPC in Reno,
Dennis Quella in Colorado Springs and maybe Wally Baldyga in Pennsylvania (all
POCA members) all of whom have wrecks around. Good luck- J DeRyke


Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 23:32:09 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  Window Glass Glue
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Chuck, this kind of stuff is why I finally removed my 1/4 window glass, used
it to make a copy out of plexiglas, tinted it to match the stock stuff,
installed them and DRILLED HOLES thru to bolt the damn mirrors on solid! IMHO,
there is no glue that will hold forever between metal and glass, especially
when you factor in heat/thermal expansion & vibration. J DeRyke


Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 14:59:48 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  Finally took possesion...
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Second is the windows travel very slowly.  Is there a way to rebuilt the
motors for the windows to make them faster.

The windows bind up as the rubber channel guides get old & debond. Replace the
channel liners & adjust the metal channels as req'd for smooth window travel.
And as long as you're in there, you definitely need a brass drive gear in the
window motor. Stock was a plastic gear that WILL break, freezing the window at
whatever position it was. Gary Hall, Wilkinson etc all stock them. Check the
window motor brushes, too- they're Ducellier from France. Might be able to
match up brushes from something else.

The radiator fans are hooked up to run full tome. How do I go about installing
a thermostat and relay to make them go on only when neccessary. }}

The stock radiator has 2 thermostats built into the lower header tank. The
stock thermostats often malfunction, which is probably why the fans are wired
as they are now. The thermostats can be replaced at great cost & effort from
the usual suppliers, IF you still have a stock radiator. Lots of aftermarket
units do not have built-in thermostats. The wiring should all still be there-
the relays are facing the radiator, left side of the front trunk near the
headlight bar . Good luck- J DeRyke


Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 01:20:55 +0000
From: David Doddek {[email protected]}
Subject: Fun with Windows.
To: Multiple recipients of list {[email protected]}

Man, I must tell you, I am really having fun with my new window motors.  I
have rolled them up and down so many times, I ran the battery down.  If
anyone wants to play, The motors I used came out of a 89 Tarus.  I have
taken pictures and will write a tech article when I get them back from
being developed.