Joe Weinstein's 410 Windsor

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Last Updated: 16 Jul 2003

Author: Dave Williams; dlwilliams=aristotle=net

Joe Weinstein wanted something with more oomph for his '86 Saleen Mustang. He also lives in San Francisco and didn't want any hassle with the California smog check system. Specificially, he not only wanted it to pass smog, but for every part the C.A.R.B. was concerned with to be 100% California legal.

The 1993 Cobra R came with a 351W, so as far as the CARB was concerned it was a legal retrofit. As far as the CARB is concerned, the casting number on the block *is* the engine; therefore, we needed a block with a correct casting number. However, the F150 pickup roller block was *not* a legal interchange; it had to be a *Mustang* block, which meant it had to be a Cobra R block... and the Cobra R block had a unique Cobra R part number, and they're not available as replacement parts from Ford! Joe got confirmation from Ford (on dead trees, beloved of bureaucrats) that it was okay to use a truck block. Paper is your friend...

The next problem was an intake manifold. There are lots of EO'd manifolds out there, but the EOs are only valid for pickup trucks. (as of when we began this project, back in '98) Apparently the CARB almost never checks to see that an EO-marked part is actually valid for that particular vehicle, but we were assuming a worst-case scenario. There were two legal 351W intakes - the original Cobra R part, with either the original cast upper or the GT-40 tubular upper, and one from Saleen. There didn't look like there was a whole lot of difference between them, so we went with the Ford bits for stealth reasons. We knew that it was possible to flow more air through the cast upper than the tubing upper if it was ported enough, so Joe sent the intake off to Extrude Hone, who lightened his wallet substantially while taking probably 1/4 inch out of the runners. The intake is still going to be the cork in the whole setup, but it's as good as it gets... that's indisputably 100% smog legal for his particular setup, anyway.

I wavered back and forth on cam selection. The engine would have enough cubes to tame a Ford E303, which is - somehow - smog legal, but reports from people who have used them said passing smog could be iffy even with a 5.0. We were building a much larger engine, but we still had to meet the same limits. I decided to cheat and ordered a somewhat smaller Crane hydraulic roller that was not EO'd. I already had an EO sticker from an E303... but when the new cam came in, it came with the sticker! Crane had run it through the CARB certification procedure between the time the catalog was printed and when I ordered the cam.

The particular Edelbrock heads we used were the best available at the time. We waited several months since various places kept talking about smogging a better head, but we finally had to go with what was actually for sale.

There are some more pictures, but they're still on undeveloped 35mm waiting for round tuits...

Internals:

The crank is a 400 Ford casting, as usual. It has already been stroked to 4.06" and cut down to 240/Six rod journal size. The counterweights have been profiled for piston clearance at TDC, which is why they have such an exaggerated football shape. Now I'm cutting the OD down so it'll spin inside the Windsor block.

I scrounged a matched set of 240/Six rods. They have to be narrowed on both sides to fit the 400 crank. The rod bolt notches got polished, the bolts replaced with ARP parts, the rods got resized, etc. The length is 6.2".

I made a tracing of the Edelbrock combustion chambers to FAX to Wiseco for the pistons. You have to make it very plain whether you're showing the view from the piston side or the head side!

$750 worth of Wiseco custom forgings. They CNC-machined a mirror dish in the tops according to a pattern they had that was pretty close to the one I sent. They have .975" pins to match the 240 rods. Even with the dish tops the CR is 10:1. They've just been untaped after ceramic coating; the next step is to moly coat the skirts.

The tag that came with the pistons gives their dimensions.

Even though this was only a 4.06" stroke the camshaft and connecting rods collided. Only three, for some reason. Usually it's four. On the top of the rod, hopefully made clearer by the white posterboard, is a lump of clay showing the rod clearance to the cam. The rods that hit got their shoulders beveled slightly. It didn't take much, just removal of the sharp corners.

Heads:

At the time we built the engine, the best of the California-smog-legal heads were the Edelbrock Performers. This particular set came in with the seats sunk far into the combustion chambers and stacks of shims under the springs, which would have been an automatic return, except I had to work on them anyway. I smoothed the seats in while polishing the combustion chambers, blanded the bowl areas, and polished the exhaust ports and chambers.

Here we are, complete. I never could get a bright finish on the chambers, but they're smooth. The circular lines are plain old scribe marks to indicate the limits of where I should grind on the chambers; they just *look* like O-ring grooves. The valves have been extensively modified and ceramic coated. The stock Edelbrock springs and retainers were replaced with Crane bits which were needed for the high-lift-rate cam. This took considerable juggling with offset keepers and shims to get the installed heights correct; the Crane kit comes for Ford 5.0 heads which have different valve stem heights.

Assembly:

Just parts laying around; I probably put them there to get some room while clearing some free space on the workbench.

The card from the Crane cam gives its specifications. It's well within the limit of being practical in a smog engine.

This is one of many trial fits; this time to get the pushrod length. I have an adjustable pushrod and some -.030" solid roller lifters for doing this.

The 50oz 5.0 balancer needed a seal saver. This particular one even came with a little tube of sealer. The seal savers are very thin and stretch quite a bit on installation; sometimes getting one on without collapsing it can be a trick.

Brand new Ford 50oz 5.0 flywheel and matching ARP bolts.

Final assembly now; here I'm checking flywheel runout. T.I.R. (total indicated runout) was under .003"; dead nuts. You can see the "spectacle" shape of the piston dishes pretty good in this shot.

Just some assorted hardware - new timing cover dowels, new oil filter adapter (the brand new Ford block didn't come with that, though it came with cam bearings!), balancer bolt, and the weird triangular-looking thing is actually the timing pointer. I had to do a slight hammer adjustment to make it line up with the marks on the damper when I degreed the TDC mark in.

The cast rockers are just fine for the sub-6500 RPM range the engine will run at. They're the pedestal mount type. Those are custom Howards Cams pushrods. Cams vary in base circle, rockers vary in geometry, valve stem length differences... it's amazing so many late model Ford guys don't run into more trouble than they do. The customs give the roller lifters .030" of preload as Ford recommends.

The assembled long block at last! The valve lift looks low, but that's an illusion. The lifters are empty, so there's a lot of lost motion until you prime the engine and get some oil to them. Ford recommends *not* pumping the lifters full of oil since it makes it hard to check the preload on assembly.

Oil Pan:

Joe's car has an oil sensor in the pan and the new Canton pan didn't come with a bung for it. I MIG welded one in and smeared some epoxy around just in case. The Canton came with a gold finish, but it was sort of mangy and all the welding and hammering didn't help it any, so I painted it black to match the rest of the engine.

I tried to get a good shot of how wavy the Canton pan rail is. It's almost a quarter inch out in various places. I didn't think to look before I started modifying the pan; Canton's quality control used to be good. I've seen a steady deterioration of their products over the last few years.

The bolts appeared to be able to pull it down snug, so I left it alone and used it. At least, I tried. I was unhappy to find out the rail was not only flat, but wouldn't clear the oil pump where it bolted up to the block!

The pan rail was wide enough to hit the oil pump where it bolted up to the block. I looked at grinding on the pump for clearance, but it didn't look like I could grind enough, and the Ford pumps are sort of weak looking down there anyway.
The pan rails were already very wavy - Canton's quality control has gone to crap - and I figured the pan would warp like an 8-track on a dashboard if I just started torching on it. So I made a fixture of 1/4" steel flat to help hold it straight.

After the torch and hammer. The resulting clearance dent worked fine, and the rail was unharmed. I could have just beat and torched repeatedly, but I figured I'd get the opportunity to use the fixture more than just this once...

Another view of the clearance dent.

The Canton pan was full of MIG spatter from when it was made, and I kept finding bits of metal in the myriad nooks and crannies where pieces of metal overlapped. I used soap and water, the pressure washer, and lacquer thinner sloshed inside to remove most of it, then modified a spare air gun with a 1/4 NPT compression fitting and some 1/4" copper tubing. That let me get into all the places that would ordinarily have been inaccessible.

Canton provided a new Ford oil pump pickup tube with the pan. I liked it better than Canton's homemade ones.

Intake:

This is the fancy Extrude-Honed intake manifold...

Manifold base. The ports are almost double the area of the ones on a stock truck lower!

The Extrude Hone process isn't all that precise. Note how the openings aren't quite rectangular and have wavy areas. It wasn't worth going after it with a grinder. The process works rather well, considering the putty goes where it wants to.

Better shot of the port irregularity.

Top side of intake. EH bolts steel "gasket" plates to this and the bottom side to keep the glop from wearing big funnel shapes at the entrances and exits.
The runners on the Cobra intake are about as straight as you'll find for a conventionally arranged Ford injection setup. See the kink in the runner to the lower left? That's #5 cylinder, the one that causes a lot of problem with Ford EFI intakes. The ports in the head sweep to the side; forward on that side, backward on the passenger side. That's the wrong direction to line up with the manifold runner, which is limited by the space needed for the distributor. The Cobra intake puts the kink early and tries to straighten the path out somewhat. Every little bit helps.

The upper isn't nearly as troublesome. The staggered rows, besides helping line the ports up on the base, also allow larger diameter runners than if they all had to be jammed side by side, like with the standard 5.8L truck intake.

The dividers at the plenum end got pretty thin, though the edges are nicely rounded. Much better looking than the stock layout.

Another shot at a slightly different angle. I'd like to have one of those fancy borescope attachments for the camera!

Extrude Hone provided a flow bench test sheet with the intake. ~290 CFM is pretty good, but the long, long runners will make the intake resonant at a lower RPM than I would have liked, but you can't have everything when you're juggling E.O.'d smog bits around.

Fire-Up:
This is another one that had to be run before shipment. I had to build some Ford brackets for the run stand, find a bellhousing to mount the starter to, then a 5.0 starter, etc.

Here I'm assembling bits to fire it up before shipment. I didn't have any reverse rotation water pump bits to match the timing cover, so I made up a garden hose adapter. Ten feet of 5/8" clear plastic tubing comes off the intake manifold, which is an old cast iron 2bbl part. I scrounged some manifolds, adapted them to the 2" pipes on my run stand mufflers, found a 460 DuraSpark distributor and installed a Motorsport steel gear on it to match the roller cam, stole the distributor cap, wires, starter, and valve covers off TRX, etc... it takes more stuff than you'd think to fire one up.
After the engine was primed, the oil pressure gauge would hit 70 PSI before the drill made one full revolution!

For some bizarre reason I didn't take a picture of the engine all dressed up to run. Here it's mostly stripped back down. The thermostat housing blockoff plate was originally made for another project that didn't go anywhere; I reused it from the parts box.
The white doohickies on the corners are Teflon sealer. That's a real 351W intake, with 16 attachment bolt holes vs. the 12 used for the 302 or 351K, which is what Ford called the Windsors after 1976, before they started calling them Windsors again. [sigh] Anyway, the four extra bolts will leak water if you use a 16-bolt intake with 12-bolt heads. I tapped the holes and screwed in some short 1/2" bolts as plugs. Next time I need an intake to run an engine like this I'll have it handy, but this sort of thing wound up taking a lot of time.

Looks just fine inside... the oil was nice and clean when it drained out. Not that I expected anything else, but paranoia is the engine builder's friend.

Shipping:

I've started taking lots of photos while crating engines now. Forklift blades are a problem. An engine shipped to London had a fork run through the side of the crate and through the oil pan; another sent to San Francisco was knocked clean out the back side of the crate. Nothing will stop a forklift blade at a running pace, but the freight companies always try to claim the engine was improperly crated. Ford and Chevy just band an engine to a pallet and staple some laths over it, not a proper crate at all. I do better than that...

Crating one for shipment can be a hassle. Here's the beginnings of the base platform; a 2x4 frame, 3/4" floor, and some odd-size pieces for cross braces.

The box part is 1/4" plywood. It'll slide right over the top and get held down with screws around the edges. The plywood was supposed to be some cabinet doors, but it was about the right size, and I needed some plywood, and besides, if I hadn't put the doors on after two years, I probably wasn't going to... the the strips are where I spliced narrower pieces together. The corners are 2x2s.

Everything taped off or plugged, lots of supports and blocks to keep it from sliding around. The metal straps are just to keep it in contact with the base; it can't slide around anywhere.

Lots of pieces of scrap lumber. The kickouts in the pan made it awkward to use the usual pan rail method of supporting the engine. Most of the weight is on the rails, with the sump in light contact with shims underneath. I didn't want the whole weight of the engine sitting on the welds.

Yet another shot. Long wood screws keep everything together.

The upper intake would have made the engine too tall to lift high enough to clear the tailgate, so it'll be added later. Temperature was about 18F and windy right then... that's the chassis for a V8 Lotus 7 knockoff leaning against the back of the house.

The water pump, fuel rails, an extra copy of the shipping instructions, and other paraphernalia are fastened to the engine or crate with zip ties and/or wood screws. Tyrannosaurus RX visible to the left, still waiting for the new high-zoot driveline to replace the punked 302 and C4.

Several layers of plastic for waterproofing, in case the trucking company leaves it outside in the rain. It's happened to me before. The upper intake is just held on with a couple of bolts; it had to ride *somewhere*...

The plywood box slides down over the sides of the base and is held down with screws. It made it to Griggs Racing in California without incident.

Specifications:


MAXIMUM OVERDRIVE RACING ENGINES

410W Ford stroker

completed 11/18/2001 for Joe Weinstein, Moraga, California





                                     *****





351W Ford stroked to 4.06", stock 4.00" bore  (408 CID)

Crane #2030 hydraulic roller cam, 216/222deg @ .050", .533/.544" lift

Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads




                                     *****














warranty:  If it breaks, you get to keep all the pieces you can find.

OIL FILTER-----------------------------------------------------------------

*  oil filter application: 1978 Nissan 510, 2.0L 4 cyl (L20B)
      Purolator Filter number L30119
      Fram PH2850
      Motorcraft FL-181
      Wix 51452

   These are full size, have no bypass spring, but do have the rubber
   flapper for anti-drainback for faster oil pressure buildup on cold start.
   This is technically a metric filter, but they will screw on just fine.

   You might want to keep everything clean so you can take one back if they
   have made a production change that keeps them from working.

   *Check* for the rubber flapper and no spring, just in case the filter
   maker has made a change.  You can do without the flapper, but you don't
   want the spring.

   If you need a half height filter use the Purolator L22167 or equivalent.



TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS -----------------------------------------------------

--------torque---------------spec-----------thread---lube------------------

rod bolts
  stretch to .0065  (ARP spec .0062-.0067)  3/8-24   ARP moly lube

main cap bolts                                      
  torqued to 95 ft-lb  (Ford spec 90-100)   1/2-20   30wt ND oil
  note: 1) use moly grease under bolt head
        2) step 1:  50 ft-lb
           step 2:  70 ft-lb  (reverse pattern)

head bolts
  torqued to 75 ft-lb   (ARP spec 75)       1/2-13   ARP moly lube
  note: 1) use hardened washers, ARP moly grease both sides of washer
        2) block is blind tapped, no sealer needed
        3) step 1:  50 ft-lb
           step 2:  75 ft-lb  (reverse pattern)
        4) heads must be retorqued after two days, or after engine is first
           run

damper (harmonic balancer) bolt
                        (Ford spec 70-90)   5/8-18   30wt ND oil
  note: use automatic transmission fluid as lubricant when pressing damper on

intake manifold bolts
                        (Ford spec 23-25)   5/16-18  sealer

exhaust manifold bolts
                        (Ford spec 18-24)   5/16-18  antiseize

rocker bolts            (torque 40 ft-lb)   5/16-18  30W ND oil

timing chain sprocket bolt
  torqued to 40 ft-lb   (Ford spec 40-45)   3/8-16   Loctite 272 blue

cam retainer plate                                  
  torqued to 10 ft-lb   (Ford spec 9-12)    1/4-20   30wt ND oil

oil pan bolts                                        
                        (Ford spec 7-9)     1/4-20   oil
                        (Ford spec 9-11)    5/16-18  oil

oil drain plug
                        (Ford spec 15-25)   1/2-20   oil
                        
water pump bolts
                        (torque 12-18)      5/16-18  antiseize
timing cover bolts
                        (torque 12-18)      5/16-18  oil

1/4 NPT threaded oilway plugs       Loctite Pipe Sealer With Teflon
                                  or silicone sealer, Teflon pipe sealer

oil pump pickup
                        (Ford spec 9-11)    5/16-18  Loctite 242

oil pump cover plate
                        (Ford spec 9-11)    1/4-20   Loctite 242

oil pump body                            
                        (torque 30-35)      3/8-16   Loctite 242

spark plugs
                                            14mm     antiseize

bottom pulley to damper
                        (Ford spec 35-50)            oil

valve cover
                        (Ford spec 3-5)     1/4-20   oil

fan to water pump
                        (Ford spec 12-18)   5/16-24  antiseize

flywheel bolts
                        (ARP spec 85)       7/16-20   30wt oil


COMPONENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------

Heads:
        Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads
        Edelbrock recommends Champion RC12YC for a baseline plug
        1.94/1.60 valves
        disassemble
        polish exhaust ports
        scribe chambers to cylinder bores
        lay chamber walls back to block scribe lines
        feather in valve seats in chamber
        smooth valve seats in ports
        polish combustion chambers and exhaust ports
        install Crane 44308 springs and retainers, set spring heights
        sandblast valve heads
        coat valve heads with CBC2 ceramic thermal barrier, bake, polish
        back and face cut valve for low lift air flow
        regrind valve faces
        regrind seats
        clean
        assemble
        vacuum check

Valvetrain:
        custom Howards 5/16" pushrods
                7.53" installed on exhaust
                7.55" installed on intake
        lash caps on exhaust side
        1.94" installed height on Crane #44208 valve springs, +.050 keepers
        new Ford roller lifters
        Competition Cams lifter spider
        Competition cams aluminum pedestal roller rockers
        Crane hydraulic roller cam #444222
                216/220 deg duration at .050"; 270/278 advertised
                .533/.544 lift with 1.6 rockers
                valve float limit 6500 RPM with 356# springs
                firing order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
        Ford Motorsport M-6268-A302 roller timing set

Block:
        new F4TE roller 351W block
        clearance block for stroker crank
        chase threaded holes
        touch hone bores #600 finish with torque plates
        install oil and water plugs
        clean
        paint semi-gloss black

Crank:
        Ford 400
        clean core
        Magnaflux
        offset grind to 4.060" stroke
        turn mains .020" undersize
        lay back snout ring for Windsor timing sprocket
        shorten nose to Windsor length
        turn down OD to fit Windsor block
        shape OD to fit 6.2" rods
        trim oil slinger flange down
        cut second keyway for timing sprocket
        install keys
        bevel front edge to clear oil pump
        polish journals
        clean
        balance to 50 oz 5.0 flywheel and damper

Rods:
        Ford 300 Six, 6.2" long
        hot tank
        Magnaflux
        glass bead
        narrow sides on mill fixture
        deburr and dress sides
        knock out old bolts
        cut shanks and caps
        install new ARP bolts
        resize big ends
        chamfer big ends
        balance
        adjust side clearance on final assembly
        bevel corners of #5, 6, 7 for cam clearance on final assembly 
        standard width rod bearings, not narrowed, std/.001, .001s on bottom

Pistons:
        Wiseco custom forgings
        4.00" diameter
        custom CNC dished tops to mirror Edelbrock chambers
        18cc dish volume
        pin height: 1.26"
        pin diameter: .975 (300 Six)
        wristpin offset: .060"
        ring widths: 1/16 1/16 .217 (3/16 + spacer)
        mask, sandblast
        demask, clean
        coat TLML moly antifriction on skirts
        coat CBC3 thermal barrier on tops
        demask
        bake
        buff
        wash
        Speed-Pro file fit moly rings, 1/16  1/16  3/16

Assembly:
        check rod to block clearances (.100 minimum)
        check rod to cam clearances (.060 minimum)
        check piston to crank clearances (.040 minimum)
        degree cam
        check rod side clearances
             #1 .008
             #2 .011
             #3 .010
             #4 .008
        check crank end play
        check valve/piston clearance
        check pushrod length
        hang pistons on rods (pressed pins)
        file fit ring gaps
        verify TDC on harmonic balancer
        install new Ford roller pilot bearing

Induction:
        Ford 1993 Mustang "Cobra R" 351W intake
        Ford cast upper
        Extrude Honed
        flow figures (CFM@28"):
            cylinder #          CFM
                1               297
                2               297
                3               288
                4               291
                5               294
                6               288
                7               280
                8               294
        fuel rails: Ground Pounder billet aluminum

Oiling:
        Melling oil pump
        new Melling 351W drive rod
        Canton 351W-Fox rear sump pan
        weld in bung for oil sensor
        heat and bend rail for oil pump clearance (bad pan)
        remove factory MIG spatters
        straighten uneven rails as much as possible
        tweak oil pickup to clear stroker crank

Miscellaneous:
        turning torque, short block with cam, 35#
        new Ford 5.0 flywheel, 50oz
        flywheel .003 TIR
        ARP flywheel bolts
        Edelbrock aluminum 5.0 reverse rotation water pump
        Ford 5.0 reverse rotation timing cover
        ARP head bolts
        Dana/Victor gaskets

Assembly:
        find pushrod length
        check valve/piston clearance
        check rod/cam/block clearance
        find TDC and adjust timing pointer
        degree camshaft
        file fit rings
        check piston clearances
        adjust rod side clearances
        check lifter preload; adjust with lash caps
        check flywheel runout
        check oil pickup to pan clearance
        trial assemble
        final assemble
        pre-oil with distributor tool

        install carburetor intake, carb, distributor
        run-in on run stand
        remove carb bits, install EFI bits, crate


===========================================================================

assembly lubricants:

                  rod bearings:  GM EOS

                         rings:  Unilube two stroke oil

                cylinder walls:  Mobil 1 5w30

                 piston skirts:  Mobil 1 5w30

                    wrist pins:  GM EOS

          head bolts - threads:  ARP moly lube

          main bolts - threads:  30wt ND

 head, main bolts - under head:  ARP moly grease

                     rod bolts:  ARP moly lube

                     cam bolts:  Loctite 272 blue

      cam retainer plate bolts:  Loctite 272 blue

                     cam lobes:  30wt oil

                  cam journals:  30wt oil

    cam distributor drive gear:  moly grease

   cam retainer plate/sprocket:  moly grease

      crankshaft rear oil seal:  GM EOS

===========================================================================

assembly notes:

Wrapper:
  Leave the engine in its plastic wrap until you're ready to install it

Sealers:
  sealers and thread goops usually work well when applied according to the 
  directions.  The major part of the directions usually calls for the mating 
  surfaces or threads to be *clean*.  Use acetone liberally to clean all metal 
  parts to be sealed. 

  don't get carried away with sealers.  "Less is more".  Excess sealer usually 
  winds up blocking the oil pump pickup.  That is not good. 

  not all sealers are oil proof.  Read the application charts before 
  purchasing.  Use only O2-sensor-safe sealers

  most sealers should be allowed to dry to some degree before the parts are 
  assembled.  *Read the directions*.  *Follow the directions*.  Don't get 
  impatient.  Have another beer, take a leak, or clean up some of your mess 
  while you wait. 

Cleanliness:
  keep your hands and tools clean and you have less chance of dropping crap
  into your new motor and less chance of slicing a hand open when you slip
  with a slimy tool.  A 75 cent roll of paper towels and $1 tub of hand
  cleaner will do.

Money:
  Once you get everything ripped apart you will begin to hemorrhage from
  the wallet as you find things that must or should be attended to while the
  engine is out.  Remember, everything always costs more and takes longer than 
  you figured.


INSTALLATION: ------------------------------------------------------------

  Use sealer on the oil pressure sender.

  Wire wheel or otherwise thoroughly clean the water temp sender.  Install
    with a minimal coat of antiseize.  Sealer and corrosion can cause 
    resistance at the joint and will make the sender reading inaccurate.

  Throttle linkage - oil it all while it's loose.  If it's a cable, oil it
    using a modeling clay funnel or motorcycle cable oiler

  Make sure the battery cable isn't resting on a header or exhaust pipe.

  Make sure the battery is grounded to both the chassis and the engine.  It 
    probably has a big wire to the block or head and some little cheesy wire 
    from the intake manifold to the firewall.  Use at least #4 (battery cable 
    size) direct from the negative post to the starter and to the chassis.  
    Your starter and headlights will appeciate it. 

  Your new motor will probably take *much* more oomph to turn it over than
    the old one.  You might want to have the starter looked at before you
    put everything back together.  It'll never be any easier to get to than
    right now.

  Use antiseize on the starter bolts.

  Make sure the battery is fully charged before trying to start a new motor.


RUN-IN: -----------------------------------------------------------------

Make sure you don't have any loose wires or hoses in the way of the fan 
  before firing the engine.  It is a great temptation to just start it up
  with nonessentials hanging hither and yon.

Pour in 5 quarts of your favorite brand of non-synthetic oil, 10-30 or 10-40 
  weight, and screw on an oil filter.  It probably wouldn't hurt to fill the 
  filter before putting it on.

With the "+"coil wire disconnected and spark plugs out, crank the engine over 
  until oil comes out the pushrods, or use an engine priming tool and a drill.

Attach the coil wire and valve covers, put the plugs in, attach plug wires.

Fill the radiator with straight water.

Smoke and noise will come from the motor as paint burns off, etc.  Ignore 
  anything that doesn't sound terminal.  Water temp will probably go right on 
  up there; it's okay as long as it doesn't go over 230 or boil over.  If you 
  have near neighbors remember this will make a fair amount of noise. 

Oil Viscosity:
  Use the lowest viscosity oil required to maintain hot idle oil pressure of
  at least 25 psi.  This will circulate the maximum amount of oil through the
  bearings.  Very thick oil just goes right through the popoff valve built 
  into the oil pump and you can be starving the bearings while the guage 
  happily reads 60-80 PSI.