White Oil
dave williams
(RIME autos) 03-25-92
- -> I noticed, after checking my oil the other day, that the very tip of
-> the dipstick had a white creamy substance on it. Just a small amount,
-> and the rest of the stick had the normal oil covering on it. What
-> could this be?
- It's water. Actually, water/oil emulsion. The inside of the crankcase
has condensation on humid, cold days, and the water gets mixed into the
oil when the engine starts. This water/oil emulsion is corrosive, and
much of a modern oil's additive package is anti-corrosive gunk designed
just to control it.
- You usually see the white gunk in engines that are driven for short
distances without being fully warmed up. If you're near the time for an
oil change, do it. You can prevent or minimize the gunk by making
occasional longer trips (half an hour or so) to boil/evaporate the water
from the oil.
- There's also the possibility of an internal water leak from a gasket or
crack, particularly since your rebuild is relatively fresh, but chances
are it's just condensation.
dave williams
rec.autos.tech 05-26-93
- Unless you have a problem, the oil should never get scorched. What is
happening is, the oil changes color as the additive package "wears out."
- Your major contaminant in motor oil is plain old water, which comes
from condensation when the engine cools off. The water reacts with the
oil when the engine warms back up, causing the formation of various
acids and spoogy byproducts which are totally gross when you open the
engine up, plus they don't lubricate too well.
- Modern motor oils are 20 to 40 percent "additives" by weight. Most of
this stuff is dedicated to absorbing water and turning it into something
less harmful. Some are wear enhancers, etc. They all change color as
they get older. By a fluke of chemistry, a majority of them turn black.
- Black oil isn't necessarily a sign the oil has to be changed, though.
Some brands turn black soon after they are poured in.
[email protected] (Dave Williams)
rec.autos.sport.tech 6 Aug 95
- -> particulate loading capacity for abrasive and acidic species, but
-> water is not a problem for either oil.
- Water from condensation is a problem in many parts of the country - the
southeastern states typically have high humidity and large temperature
swings inducing condensation in the crankcase. My Yamaha has a glass window
in the side of the crankcase; some mornings the oil is almost white, though
it clears quickly once the engine reaches operating temperature.
- If you go long enough without changing the oil and the engine never reaches
a high enough temperature to boil the water off (typical of many older cars
used for short trips) the water and oil will react to form acids, which will
eat the bearing shells.
- -> So your water pump will operate less and the overall average temperature
-> will be lower (the temp at the coolant channels constant, but the temp at
-> the cylinderwalls lower (Diriclet boundary value problem).
- I don't know who Diriclet is, but your water pump is turned in a fixed ratio
to the crank speed. It operates all the time. I don't know of any
exceptions to this for land vehicles; if you know of one I'd like to hear of
it.
- Most cars use a poppet valve restrictor in the water path. When the engine
is cool, the valves closes, restricting water flow. This in turn increases
head pressure at the pump, which takes more power to turn the pump.
- Your comment about temp at the cylinder walls being lower doesn't make sense
in context.
- -> an effect anyway since friction is not the largest heat producer nor
-> is lower oper. temps the reason for using synths.
- Not the entire reason, but a valid one. Oil temps >300F are not
tremendously unusual in American Sedan racing, to give one example. I have
observed factory Ford bearing shells begin to "sweat" globules of metal at
slightly over 300F while baking moly coatings.
- -> Hum. I am a scientist who has worked in tribology
- Great. However, it wouldn't hurt to learn a little more about engines.